Day 8 Chilham to Canterbury (Oct. 7, 2010)

The Pilgrim's Way passes right in front of St. Mary's church, Chilham and so, of course, did we. The sun was shining and all was right with the world. Only seven miles to go to Canterbury -- piece of cake.

Past oast houses and sheep, through apple orchards, all in the glorious sunshine. Our pace quickened as we approached the Canterbury (the riding term "canter" comes from the "Canterbury gallop", the faster pace medieval pilgrims on horseback urged their mounts to as they approached the city).

We thought we would see the spires of the great cathedral from the crest of a hill, but we were well within the town when we came around a corner and saw:
Ave mater Angliae (Hail, mother of England).

We proceeded through the West Gate and into the old walled city, where cars are banned and tourists abound. We had a late lunch in an Italian restaurant and then headed for the cathedral.





On presentation of our Pilgrim Passport we were given free entry -- rather gratifying. We went over to the Information Centre and had our Passports stamped. First stamp of the Via Francigena -- Canterbury to Rome.










Once inside we went to the Chapel of The Sword's Point, the very spot where Archbishop Becket (now St. Thomas of Canterbury) was murdered by King Henry's knights, if not on his orders, certainly at his suggestion -- "Will no one rid me of this turbulent priest?"

This Chapel is on the north side of the cathedral. On the south side, the Pilgrim Steps proceed to the east, past the Choir to Trinity Chapel. Here, from 1220 to 1538, was Saint Thomas' tomb and shrine and pilgrims came from all over England and northern Europe to venerate the saint. The tomb was richly decorated in gold and jewels and surrounded by a removable wooden cover. The pilgrims proceeded up the Pilgrim Steps and massed all around the outside of the chapel. On cue, one of the canons of the cathedral would raise the wooden cover (it was suspended from a rope in the ceiling) and the pilgrims knelt in veneration.

When Henry VIII broke with Rome he was determined to smash the cult of Saint Thomas, this cleric who had defended the Church against the civil power. He had the saint's bones removed and burned and the ashes scattered to the four winds. The tomb was broken up and the proceeds went to line the pockets of Henry and his courtiers. Henry's triumph was complete, or so it must have seemed.


But today, the Cathedral is once more a place where pilgrims come to venerate Saint Thomas of Canterbury. A lonely candle burns continually in Trinity Chapel marking the spot where Thomas' tomb once stood.