Day 3 Gravesend to Rochester

Today was a lovely walk, very varied and stimulating. We started in industrial Gravesend and, after walking along the Thames with views of Essex across the river, trended south-east along the footpath beside the abandoned Thames and Medway Canal. This led through flat farmland towards the rolling green North Downs which got closer and closer as we walked along.

Then the canal vanished into a tunnel cut through the Downs and we found ourselves route-finding across farm fields. Lovely views. Eventually we reached the outskirts of Strood, a suburb of Rochester. As we descended down through the town we were rewarded with the first views of Rochester Castle and the Cathedral across the Medway. For the first time we really felt we were on pilgrimage.

After a late lunch we crossed the Medway and entered the Cathedral, a beautiful Norman building with Perpendicular additions:

















Somewhat poignant for Catholics as it was the cathedral church of St. John Fisher. As Bishop of Rochester he was the only bishop in England to stand against Henry VIII and was executed for his resistance (he shares the same feast day as St. Thomas More -- June 22). Rather touchingly, there is a statue of him with other medieval worthies at the entrance to the Choir. Touching, because it must be a recent addition and, therefore, a gracious Anglican gesture.





We were chatting with a volunteer guide when a lady in a wheelchair came up. The guide introduced her as the chaplain of the Cathedral. I assume she was an Anglican minister, but I didn't ask and I didn't get her name. We chatted a bit about our pilgrimage and she, very perceptively, asked if the spiritual dimension of our pilgrimage had hit us yet. We rather sheepishly said "no" and she asked us if we would like to pray. So we went with her over to the Lady Chapel and lit a candle and prayed.

12 miles in a little over 4 hours. We're now spending a lot of time (and money) getting to and back from our walk each day. Looks like it might be time to start staying overnight: "get out and stay out". And it would feel more like a pilgrimage.

Footnote: After writing this, I found the following in Wikipedia: "In 1980, More was added to the Church of England's calendar of saints, jointly with John Fisher, on July 6, the anniversary of More's death."